Salmon, bannock, and culinary heritage

How the sole Indigenous restaurant in Vancouver preserves local cuisine one dish at a time

Few things embody a place as powerfully as its food. Ingredients offer insights into its terrain, flora, and fauna, while cooking traditions carry stories of its people and their histories. Yet, the city of Vancouver doesn't boast a thriving culinary scene that showcases its original inhabitants. Salmon n' Bannock, a modern Indigenous bistro, is the only restaurant in the city that offers a dedicated Indigenous dining experience.

The genesis of Salmon n’ Bannock

The genesis of Salmon n’ Bannock

Helmed by co-founder and owner Inez Cook— the restaurant was founded in 2010, and now has a sister location ‘On The Fly’ that opened at Vancouver International Airport in 2022. Cook is from the Nuxalk Nation in Bella Coola, B.C., and was just a year old when she was forcibly taken from her home and placed for adoption into a non-Indigenous family by the Canadian government. She was one of the estimated 20,000 Indigenous infants and children this happened to between the 1950s and 1980s, as part of what’s known as the Sixties Scoop.

She wrote a children's book about her story in 2018. In a sequel, published in 2023, she narrates how she was reintroduced to the Nuxalk Nation through the restaurant. This is how she received traditional name, Snitsmana.

Inez Cook with her published books

Inez Cook with her published books

Inez Cook with her published books

The team culture at Salmon n' Bannock

The team culture at Salmon n' Bannock

Under Cook’s dynamic leadership, Salmon n’ Bannock has gone on to welcome team members from First Nations across Canada, along with their own culinary influences.

Chef Ryan Cartier (left) and kitchen manager & chef Paul Fortin (right) in the kitchen at Salmon n' Bannock

Chef Ryan Cartier (left) and kitchen manager & chef Paul Fortin (right) in the kitchen at Salmon n' Bannock

Chef Ryan Cartier (left) and kitchen manager & chef Paul Fortin (right) in the kitchen at Salmon n' Bannock

Chef Ryan Cartier (left) and kitchen manager & chef Paul Fortin (right) in the kitchen at Salmon n' Bannock

Chef Ryan Cartier (left) and kitchen manager & chef Paul Fortin (right) in the kitchen at Salmon n' Bannock

Chef Ryan Cartier (left) and kitchen manager & chef Paul Fortin (right) in the kitchen at Salmon n' Bannock

Chef Jordan Barton holding plates of bannock with butter and jam, and "Fiss n' Rice" that he prepared

Chef Jordan Barton holding plates of bannock with butter and jam, and "Fiss n' Rice" that he prepared

Chef Jordan Barton holding plates of bannock with butter and jam, and "Fiss n' Rice" that he prepared

“Being a part of this team is something special,” says chef Jordan Barton, who joined the team in March 2024. He is from the Heiltsuk and Kitasoo/Xai'xais Nations of Bella Bella and Klemtu, B.C. “Cooking has always been a passion of mine, and I get to work with a diverse staff of talented, Indigenous people.”

From left to right: chef Ryan Cartier, kitchen manager & chef Paul Fortin, and chef Laurie Sampare at the kitchen at Salmon n' Banock

From left to right: chef Ryan Cartier, kitchen manager & chef Paul Fortin, and chef Laurie Sampare

From left to right: chef Ryan Cartier, kitchen manager & chef Paul Fortin, and chef Laurie Sampare

Earliest memories of Indigenous cuisine

Earliest memories of Indigenous cuisine

Trays of bannock in the kitchen

Trays of bannock in the kitchen

Trays of bannock in the kitchen

The mighty bannock—with its complicated history—is a cornerstone of the menu. After all, it's half of the restaurant's name.

Diners are sure to get a taste of the bannock on any given visit, since the menu showcases it in many different forms— sliced into crackers to savour with salmon mousse, as a scone to be spread with whipped butter and berry jam, or as the bun of their urban smoked salmon burger.

Chef Laurie Sampare slicing bannock

Chef Laurie Sampare slicing bannock

Chef Laurie Sampare slicing bannock

What is bannock?

What is bannock?

Cook’s eclectic palate comes from over four decades of globetrotting as a flight attendant, during which time she has lived in cities all over the world. At Salmon n’ Bannock, her culinary philosophy is,

“Indigenous ingredients served with a modern palate.”

The food philosophy at Salmon n’ Bannock

The food philosophy at Salmon n’ Bannock

Whether it’s seasonal vegetables, bison, elk, game sausage, sablefish, sockeye, or coho salmon, the team is committed to procuring produce and ingredients from distributors who share their values.

When sourcing ingredients, their first choice is always Indigenous suppliers, followed by local sources, then Canadian, and finally Turtle Island— a term some Indigenous peoples use to refer to North America. “You can taste the quality, even if the dish is super simple,” Cook says. 

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Seared duck breast on a bed of mashed potatoes, with a demi glaze and seasonal vegetables

Seared duck breast on a bed of mashed potatoes, with a demi glaze and seasonal vegetables

Seared duck breast on a bed of mashed potatoes, with a demi glaze and seasonal vegetables

Chef Jordan Barton in the kitchen at Salmon n' Bannock

Chef Jordan Barton in the kitchen at Salmon n' Bannock

Chef Jordan Barton in the kitchen at Salmon n' Bannock

Bannock with whipped butter and berry jam (left) and "Fiss n' Rice" (right)

Bannock with whipped butter and berry jam (left) and "Fiss n' Rice" (right)

Bannock with whipped butter and berry jam (left) and "Fiss n' Rice" (right)

Cook enjoys keeping the menu fresh by introducing specials, features, and seasonal offerings. “At the end of the day, the menu is a piece of paper. We can rip it up and write a new one,” she says.

However, she recognizes that many elements must stay consistent, as customers often crave the signature dishes from the menu. “The heart of it needs to stay the same.” A favorite among both customers and team is the "fiss n’ rice," which features a six-ounce fillet of wild sockeye salmon on a bed of Ojibway wild rice with a brown butter sauce and served with seasonal vegetables.

Making of Fiss n' Rice

Making of Fiss n' Rice

What makes visiting Salmon n’ Bannock extra special is that it’s not just a culinary delight, but what an online reviewer describes as “enlightening, educational and nourishing to the soul.”

A painting—'Gone Green' by Lawrence Paul Yuxweluptun—on a wall at Salmon n' Bannock

'Gone Green' by Lawrence Paul Yuxweluptun, on a wall at Salmon n' Bannock

'Gone Green' by Lawrence Paul Yuxweluptun, on a wall at Salmon n' Bannock

A table at Salmon n' Bannock with art on the wall

A set table at Salmon n' Bannock

A set table at Salmon n' Bannock

From the vibrant, thoughtfully-curated art that graces the walls, to cultural information guides placed on every table, to a retail stall that stocks products by Indigenous-owned businesses, it is a holistic experience of Indigenous culture.

A stall at Salmon n' Bannock to "dine and shop"

A "dine and shop" stall at Salmon n' Bannock

A "dine and shop" stall at Salmon n' Bannock

The art at Salmon n’ Bannock

The art at Salmon n’ Bannock

“I’ve lived all over the world, I’ve met so many cultures. I realised that the one thing that everybody has in common is food. Food brings people together.” says Cook. “You can sit around a dinner table anywhere you go, and learn about people’s cultures. And Indigenous is no different.”

Food as a vessel of culture and heritage

Food as a vessel of culture and heritage

If food is undeniably a powerful vessel of culture and heritage, it’s surprising that the Canadian government’s Truth and Reconciliation efforts appear to have overlooked the promotion of an Indigenous culinary scene in a global city like Vancouver.

“It’s growing,” says Cook, referring to the upcoming launch of a shared kitchen for weekend dining, and The Ancestor Cafe at the Fort Langley National Historic Site, which opened in early 2024. “I hope it continues to grow. There’s room for every dining style, whether casual or high-end.”

Co-founder and owner Inez Cook sits at a table before service begins at Salmon n' Bannock. Coordinating and firefighting are big parts of her job as a business owner.

Co-founder and owner Inez Cook sits at a table before service begins at Salmon n' Bannock. Coordinating and firefighting are big parts of her job as a business owner.

Co-founder and owner Inez Cook sits at a table before service begins at Salmon n' Bannock. Coordinating and firefighting are big parts of her job as a business owner.

Factors behind the lack of Indigenous restaurants in Vancouver

Factors behind the lack of Indigenous restaurants in Vancouver

As Salmon n’ Bannock continues to carve out space for Indigenous cuisine in Vancouver, its impact extends far beyond the plate. For Cook and her team, the restaurant is a vital space of healing, connection, and community— where food not only nourishes the body and soul, but also strengthens ties to heritage and identity.

The best part about running Salmon n’ Bannock

The best part about running Salmon n’ Bannock

Exterior of Salmon n' Bannock

Exterior of Salmon n' Bannock

Exterior of Salmon n' Bannock

This project acknowledges that the City of Vancouver is located on the traditional, ancestral, and unceded territories of the Coast Salish Peoples, including the xʷməθkʷəy̓əm (Musqueam), Sḵwx̱wú7mesh (Squamish), and səlilwətaɬ (Tsleil-Waututh) Nations.

As we take a look at the story of Salmon n' Bannock, let us honor the deep cultural, historical, and culinary traditions of the Indigenous peoples who have stewarded this land since time immemorial. This project seeks to amplify their voices, and recognize the role of food as a vital vessel for preserving identity and heritage.

I extend my heartfelt thanks to Inez Cook and her team at Salmon n' Bannock—Paul Fortin, Jordan Barton, Raven Ravensbergen, Laurie Sampare, and Ryan Cartier—for their time, patience, grace, and hospitality during the production process. Their generosity and openness deeply enriched my understanding of the profound stories carried through their food.

Salmon n' Bannock
1128 W Broadway #7, Vancouver, BC V6H 1G5
+1 (604) 568-8971
www.salmonandbannock.net
Instagram: @salmonnbannockbistro

Retail stall at Salmon n' Bannock

Retail stall at Salmon n' Bannock

Retail stall at Salmon n' Bannock